The Art and Precision of Sizing Wide Band Rings

Hey Everyone! As you may know I create LOTS of wide band rings - my most famous being the “Halle” ring. I just love the bold statement that a wide band makes, plus it’s a larger “canvas” for gems and artistic accents on a ring. But wide band rings will fit very differently than a narrow band, and are much more difficult (if not impossible) to resize once they’ve been created. 

Stretching up a very wide band ring requires specialized tools to ensure precision and accuracy, and is not always successful. First, you must determine the desired increase. Next, most jewelers use a ring stretcher, a machine equipped with expanding mandrels, to gradually widen the band. The ring is placed on the mandrel, and as the handle is turned, the mandrel expands, gently stretching the metal. This process is repeated incrementally. Additionally, lubricants may be used to prevent damage to the metal during stretching. Again, this procedure takes time and requires special machinery and on occasion the integrity of the ring can be compromised as well as the settings of any stones, which is why I don’t do this. It’s always better to get the fit right the first time!

So…. How do you get the perfect fit? That’s what I’m here to help with. 

First let’s begin with what is considered a “wide” band. In my experience, once you hit around 7-8mm in width, that's where things start to get interesting. At this point, you might find that your usual ring size just doesn't cut it for a comfortable fit. This is where I see people needing to go up in size for a better fit. 

If I use a sweeping generalization - “typically” a wide band ring needs to be around 1/2 size larger than your normal (narrow band) ring size in order to fit comfortably, and that’s a good starting point. However, I’ve seen people who need only 1/4 size and people who need a full size up! Everybody's fingers are different, after all, and as the width of the band increases, so will the necessary size. 

The Various Types of Bands

Also, you need to know that there are a few different types of bands (or shanks). There's a variety of cuts and styles to consider, each offering its own unique features. 

There is the standard or straight shank, which is the type of shank on all my wide band rings. It maintains a consistent width throughout, which means it’s the same size at both ends as well as in the middle and is “straight” throughout the entire band. It provides a traditional look that's both classic and versatile. 


Then there are “comfort fit” shanks that are slightly rounded on the interior of the band in a way that makes the very center of the band the only portion that touches your finger. It provides a snug and usually comfortable fit because it minimizes friction. 

Additionally, there are tapered shanks which gradually decrease in width towards the back of the ring, creating a larger appearance at the front/top of the band and smaller on the underside. 


So Where Does That Leave Things?

Me - I'm all about the straight bands - they're classic, bold, can be incredibly ornate and hold big stones with confidence, and my logo stamps beautifully inside them.

When it comes down to it, finding the perfect fit for your wide band ring is all about finding that sweet spot between comfort and style. Each one of a kind ring that I create is crafted with care to ensure it's not just a statement piece, but a comfortable one too. Getting the perfect fit for a wide band ring isn't always straightforward. That's where I come in to help - Email me for help if you ever need it!